Prague: Perfect Mix of New + Old

Prague was the last stop on our fairy tale city tour.  It was a magnificent finale - we arrived just in time for their Christmas market to open and along with it - a blast of cold air!  We had a few cold, but beautiful days in Prague.  We were impressed with how such a medieval city could also have such new, modern features.  You'll see a few snaps of some of the modern below:

The Castle District - seen high on the hill below - is the city's most distinguishing feature.  We had mostly dreary weather, but in our last hours, the clouds cleared and we caught this view:

We also enjoyed the opening night of its Christmas Market.  The main square was packed with revelers, but P managed to catch this shot of their massive Christmas tree:

This is outside the Castle District.  A mix of the old castle with my new shoes!  I got my cool pair of Botas (redesigned from the Communist era) - I <3 them!

St. Vittrius Cathedral was awe inspiring.  Just stunning architecture and stained glass:

A close up of some of the amazing stained glass and decor:

View of the red roofs of Prague from the Castle!

Check out the modern street art found in a random corner of the city:

And Frank Gehry's Dancing Couple building...architecture was unbelievable:

Prague, we love you!

If You Go: Prague

We had such a short stay in Prague, we don't have a ton of recommendations! That said, it's a fabulous city - like being in a fairytale!

Hotel

• Icon Hotel: This is a 10 minute walk from the main downtown of Prague.  It's a small boutique hotel that offers made-to-order breakfast and Hastens beds.  So, if you've ever wanted to sleep in a $10,000 bed - this hotel is for you!  Highly recommend! 

Restaurants 

• Nota Bene: A modern Czech restaurant - this has fantastic, high-quality dishes along with an amazing beer selection.  The atmosphere here is very cool - exposed brick and duct work and cool music.  Highly recommend - but bring cash (they don't accept cards!)
• Restaurace Mlejnice: Want to eat ginormous, traditional Czech portions?  This is your spot.  The portions here are huge - and delicious.  P tried a pork joint the size of his head and I enjoyed a potato hash-brown like dish that could have fed a small family.  The vibe is rustic and the steins of beers are as large as the portions.  This is right in downtown.  A good stop if you are very hungry! 

Things to Do

• Prague Castle: This is a no brainer, but we bought a ticket and spent the day poking around Prague Castle.  It's more of a district - it includes an art museum, archaeology museum, prison tower, and little shops.  It was easy to spend a good half-day poking around
• Botas 66: This is a weird recommendation, but Prague has a famous trainer-type shoe called Botas.  Under communism, these were the only shoes allowed - they have now been re-designed into a rainbow of colors and the store is very cool!
• Vysehrad: This is a very, very old fortification that has an amazing view over the entire city - including the castle.  It is a great spot for a morning walk - it includes a beautiful cemetery, church, and archaeology museum.  Not a must see, but if you have time...this is a good stop!  Bonus - it's open Sunday morning! 

Vienna: Coffee, Concerts + Christmas Markets

Vienna is one of the most elegant cities we have visited.  Every building from landmarks to shops are ornately decorated and carefully maintained.  We got a lovely whirlwind tour from our good friend - who should us all of the beauty of the city - I tried my hardest to capture it in the photos below:

Rathaus (City Hall) dressed in its finest for the holidays.

Seeing a concert in the haunts of Mozart was a thrill (and the acoustics were unbelievable)

Schonbrunn Palace was like a castle out of a fairytale (and P and I are learning to capture better selfies!)

Some people know my love for inflatable snow globes (tacky yet irresistibly).  This life size one in the middle of an ice skating rink the Christmas Market was incredible (P...can we get a replica when we get home, please?!?!)

Toasting the holiday with the best of friends, mulled wine, and a beautiful city to explore. We are so thankful to have friends like family around the world.  We also got out the selfie stick for some very serious #adulting.  Others may have children and major responsibilities, we had hot wine, crazy photos, and a mid-week day off.

Gingerbread house in the middle of Cafe Central where we started Thanksgiving off with fancy, spiked Vienesse coffee and apple strudel.  I try to imagine what it must have been like with patrons like Freud, Lenin, and Trotsky.

The most beautiful Christmas Market lighting up a cold night! What a lovely visit!

If You Go: Vienna

We were lucky to stay with a great friend in Vienna who took us to all the coolest places in short order around the city!  We also celebrated an amazing Thanksgiving dinner...so my list of things to do is short, but sweet!

Restaurants

• Cafe Central: Vienna is famed for its cafe society.  Cafe Central is probably the most iconic spot to enjoy a true cafe - beautiful vaulted ceilings, amazing apple strudel, and strong coffee.  All the best things under one roof!
• Erich: This was a fun, hip restaurant.  They have tacos, things on kebabs, and a few other specialties.  So I had a cool corn on the kebab, fancy grilled meat, and an avacado taco (and a partridge in a pear tree!) 

Things to Do 

• Schonbrunn Palace: This was the center of the Hapsburg Empire.  The outside is beautiful, but the inside was even more impressive.  All in crazy rococo style. No pictures inside, but well worth the price of admission (not always the case!)
• Concert at a Concert Hall: Vienna is the city of Mozart, Beethoven, and many other famous musicians.  A concert is a must.  We saw a beautiful concert with the Vienna Philharmonic at their Concert Hall.  The acoustics were some of the most stunning I have ever heard.
• Architecture Walk: The architecture of Vienna is unbelievable.  Every build seems to be a work of art.  From their government buildings to the stunning building that houses H&M.  Stroll the streets and see how beautiful the city really is!

Budapest, I Heart You!

I loved Budapest.  I loved Budapest hard and unexpectedly.  If I am honest, I was slightly dreading the trip because we watched an episode of Anthony Bourdain where he ate goulash and some unrecognizable pig parts in sausage.  The idea of that type of heavy food for days on end worried me.  Thankfully I was wrong.

I loved everything about the city - the architecture, the food, and the vibe.  In a strange way, it reminded me of Buenos Aires (my favorite city in the world) - in the feeling of a sense of nostalgia and longing for another time of elegance, wealth, and power.  For Budapest, this was the turn of the 20th century - when Budapest was a seat of world power and had a tremendous amount of wealth.  You see this in the crumbling castles and in what they managed to preserve / re-construct from this area.  It must have been a grand time to be alive in Budapest in those days.  Today, the palpable nostalgia made me love the city even more.  In any case, here are some of my favorite snaps:

The Hungarian Parliament building is bigger than anywhere else in Europe.  It's just as beautiful outside as it is inside.

We perfected our selfie stick skills on this trip.  How can you not love this beautiful city?

Beautiful colors and details at every turn.

The dome of Buda Castle built on a hill high above the city

The best views of the city were at night...and especially from our dinner cruise.  Truly breathtaking and romanic.

Afternoon Tea at New York Palace was such an amazing treat.  It's what I imagine high-tea on the Titanic to be like...complete with the string quartet.

This view will remain etched in my mind forever.  Children ice skating in the shadow of Vajdahunyad  Castle.  These are the moments Christmas Cards are made of.  A crumbling castle, snow suited kids, and a blue sky.  There are few things I have found more magical or picturesque in my life:

If You Go: Budapest

Budapest is officially in my top 5 cities we have ever visited.  I really loved our trip there - so many interesting buildings, a rich history, and amazing food.  Part of my love for this city was a well-planned trip - we really loved the hotels, restaurants, and attractions we booked - so I highly recommend everything below.  Run toward Budapest:

Hotels 

• Hotel Palazzo Zichy: This is probably my most favorite hotel we have stayed at in Europe.  It's a converted mansion / palace that retains some old charm, but has completely modern rooms.  Very centrally located and the breakfast in unbelievably good.  Highly recommend ($100/night)

Meals 

• Legenda Dinner Cruise: This is the top ranked dinner cruise in Budapest.  Highly recommend - it's a beautiful view of the city, is slow enough that you can take picture, and the experience is upscale (a la carte menu, great wine section).  If you splurge on one thing in Budapest, do this! 
• Borbíróság: Modern Hungarian food.  Our meal here was EXCELLENT. The food was creatively prepared, beautifully presented, and very inexpensive.  The wine list was also extensive.  Highly recommend. 
• Black Cab Burger: On travel days, we rarely make dinner reservations.  It was hard to find a table on a Friday night in Budapest so we just grabbed a burger.  These were excellent!
• Dionyses Tavern: Greek restaurant - we were the 8th couple in our friend group to go.  The food is very good - broad array of Greek food and they give you a variety of extras (I won't ruin the surprise for the ladies at the end!)

Things to Do 

• Parliament Tour: This was very special.  It's such a beautiful building on the outside, but it's just as beautiful inside with with gold ceilings and beautiful architecture.  Important note: You must book this in advance through their website
• Matthias Church: Near Buda Castle, the church is beautiful inside and ornately painted.  More impressive (perhaps) is the amazing view of the city from the platform at the top.  We scored tickets to the platform on day-of, but recommend you book ahead if you're visiting in the more popular summer time.  Also, be prepared for 200 steep steps (Was winded at the top)
• New York Palace: We had a very fancy tea here - this is more of a destination than a a meal.  It's probably the most interesting place I have ever eatten - it's like time stopped in 1920.  Belle epoque style with a live string quartet.  The food is beautifully presented and feels like a real tea party.  It is not cheap, but it's well worth the expense!
• Opera Tour: This is considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Budapest.  They offer afternoon tours which allow you to see inside the opera house and learn it's history.  It's a 45 minute tour --- they offer it at certain times of the day, so you may want to plan ahead.
• Central Market: The architecture of the Central Market is unbelievable - and you get a great taste of Hungarian food (lots of paprika, sausage, and root veggies!).  On the second floor, there are some street food-type places that are great for lunch (heavy and quick!).  The second floor also has a number of lovely Hungarian lace stalls.

Paris is always a good idea...

....a few snaps from our early November trip.  Paris never gets old, it's just so elegant and iconic.  A few of my most favorite scenes:

Paris stroll....

Night shots at the Louvre

How beautiful are these...

Snails and frog legs at the Christmas Market...how French.  While I have tried both, I couldn't get into trying them out of Christmas hut!

Centre Pompidou

Artsy view from the restaurant at the top of Centre Pompidou.  Also note that this meal included the most expensive burger P has ever eaten ($29!!!)

Stunning windows of Sainte-Chapelle.  Add it to your bucket list. You must.

Perfect gothic fountain

We ate this. Potentially the most beautiful dessert to have graced my belly.

Paris Round 2: Modern Art and French Pastries

We felt so lucky to take a second trip back to Paris...the City of Lights.  We took our first trip here almost exactly 3 years ago - on our engagement trip (we got engaged in French vineyards right after we visited Paris).  On that trip, we did many of the typical tourist activities - Musee D'Orsay, the Louvre, Montmartre, and the Eiffel Tower.  This time, we were able to see other city highlights we missed on our first round.  We also managed to fit in some delicious meals and pastries.

Hotels 
Hotel Ekta: Huge recommendation on this hotel.  It is just two blocks from the Arc de Triomphe and just off the Champs Elysess.  It's a small, modern hotel with a black and white theme.  The rooms are well thought out - with every type of plug and charging station and very well maintained.  HIGHLY recommend - it was was inexpensive for Paris ($120/night)

Restaurants
Le Relais de Entrecote: If you look up "best steak frites" in the city, this is what you'll find.  Hundreds of recommendations for this amazing restaurant.  They have only one thing on the menu - Steak Frites - but they do it just beautifully.  The wine is inexpensive and the meal is so incredibly memorable.  There are a few in the city - we went to the one in St. Germain.  Note that they don't take reservations, but if you go a few minutes before their opening at 7 pm and stand in line, you'll be in the first seating.

Il Grano: This was an adorable Italian restaurant just behind the Arc de Triomphe.  Quaint with freshly handmade pasta.  If you're staying in the area, recommend.  If you're not staying in the area, it's not worth the travel.

Itinerary

Friday - Late Afternoon

• Stroll Down the Champs Elysees: Check out the shops, maybe taste a macaroon at Laudree.  We were lucky enough to be there during the Paris Christmas Market, so we enjoyed hot mulled wine, bought Christmas ornaments, and generally did some shopping 
• Dinner - Le Relais de Entrecote: See above, amazing experience.  Delicious steak and incredible dessert.  
• Paris at Night Stroll: We strolled back along the Seine to see the Eiffel Tower lit up and also stopped at the amazing Louvre to see their famous pyramid lit at night.  It was a beautiful walk through the city 

Saturday - Full Day 

• Centre Pompidou: Modern Art Bonanza! All of the most famous artists of the past century - Picasso, Matisse, Warhol. Stunning.  We spent like 6 hours here seeing the art, checking out the modern architecture, and eating at their fine restaurant (beautiful views, but $$$$) - George.  Mark out a full day for this! 

Sunday 

• Picasso Museum: This was our third Picasso Museum (others were in Barcelona and Malaga). It has been a treat to see the range of his artwork.  The Paris museum in a beautiful old mansion and also includes his private collection - including Renoir and Kandinsky. Beautiful - spend 1-2 hours.
• Sainte-Chapelle: We strolled toward Notre Dame, checked out the outside, and then visited Saint Chapelle.  This is the most stunning stainglass I have ever seen.  Truly beautiful. 
• Latin Quarter: We rounded out our day with a stroll through the shops around the Latin Quarter.  Always beautiful and fun to browse. 

Hello London, We've Missed You!

The night we got back from London in August, we immediately booked our next trip.  Booking in advance...with some of the train sales...means that we can take very inexpensive trips to London very frequently.  We were lucky to have beautiful, fall weather for the weekend and packed in some of our "must sees" including Hampton Court Palace, Churchill War Rooms, and the West End show Wicked.  It was a busy, but wonderful weekend.  I highly recommend all three of the attractions we visited - they were worth the time and money for the amazing history they shared of the city / country.

As always, a few photo highlights of our trip!

Hampton Court...here we come!  If you have visited us in Virginia, you know why this sign is special!

Truly stunning palace full of so much history.  Richard the VIII lived here... he was the one who implemented the Dissolution of Monasteries Act which had a dramatic impact on the countryside...including the beautiful Abbey ruins I hold so dearly:

Here is a view of the topiary garden from the King's private chamber.  Wow!  I am a huge fan of topiaries (I even had them at my wedding)...this was the most magnificent garden I have ever visited:

Inside one of several great halls within the property.  Majestic:

Inside of the 5 or 6 courts within Hampton Court... beautifully restored:

A "living" King Richard! Hee hee!

My brother got us amazing theatre tickets for Christmas...so seeing Wicked was a special treat!  Neither of us had ever seen it...the effects on West End were amazing!

The next day, after seeing Churchill War Rooms (which were AMAZING but hard to capture on film!) We got to do a bit of shopping... including visiting the iconic Liberty of London.  WHAT A
TREAT!

We <3 London and can't wait to come back for even more explorations!

Everyday Adventure: Castle Howard

This weekend we were originally supposed to visit Warsaw, but with Alfie's continued recovery we decided to spend the long weekend at home and continue to take care of him.  In good news, we visited the vet today and he is continuing to heal well...he feels so well that he wants to run upstairs, jump. and go on long walks.  That's the challenge ... keeping him calm.  Here he is enjoying breakfast this morning:

We also got to go to the stunning Castle Howard.  Built originally in the 1500's, it's one nicest stately home in Yorkshire.  It has been used in many movies and television shows...including my latest obsession...Victoria.  It was a fabulous day out!

The back of Castle Howard...actually more interesting than the front! Amazing blue sky!

Our usual tandem photo ...tripod works!

Inside...the bed used in Victoria...

A temple at the edge of the property...these seemed super popular at some point in the 1700's for hosting outdoor dinner parties.

Strolling the property in the sun....

The gardens were beautiful even in October...

Husby enjoyed the gardens too ...

...we also stopped at an American dinner... note my favorite...corn dogs!  P enjoyed the crazy slider plate: