Thursday, May 30, 2024

If You Go: Loire Valley

We had the best time on our days exploring the Loire Valley.  We stayed in the city of Tours - which was a great base for the trip.  The adorable city had lots of shops and restaurants filled the town and everything was quite walkable.  Best of all, we stayed across from their incredible food hall filled with fresh pastries, fruits, meats, and all sorts of other French treats.  



Things to Do 

Over our four days in the Loire Valley, these were our major chateaus - every one of them was magnificent and unique in its own way and I would highly recommend all of them.  Note that for all except Amboise, you'll need to rent a car to be able to reach them from tours: 

Chateau Villandry.  This chateau had some of the most beautiful gardens I've ever seen!  Gorgeous, manicured flower gardens, a hedge maze, and a pond filled with swans.  Highly recommend getting above the gardens - either at the top of the chateau or on a terrace to be able to appreciate the gorgeous gardens.

Chateau Chambord,  The biggest, most elegant chateau - the architecture of this stunning palace was incredible.  This chateau includes a kids play area inside and many rooms to roam through - the central staircase is a masterpiece 

Chateau Amboise. Set in a perfect medieval town, we visited on a perfect blue sky day.  Truly a magnificent property - it has gorgeous gardens and beautiful views of the Loire from every terrace 

Chateau Chenonceux.  This is an incredible work of architectural genius- a chateau that spans the entire Loire River width with two stories raised high above the river filled with a dance hall and portrait gallery.  Even a visit in the pour rain was a delight and you could cross the river through the house to get photos of the magnificent chateau from both sides of the river.  At one point there was a Medici who helped build the vision so it's reminscent of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence 

Meals 

All of our best meals in the region were leisurely lunches after mornings at the chateaus - the evenings were more casual, meals in the city of Tours - this schedule worked well for the littles and allowed us to try some really unique country restaurants 

Chateau Chenonceaux - Orangerie.  The restaurant was on the grounds of the chateau - the food and the ambiance were magnficant.  We had a gorgeous pre-fixed menu with wines from the grounds; they also had a gogeous kids menu.  We were able to get in without reservations, but I would recommend them (we went on the early side) 

L'Etape Gourmet [Near Chateau Villandry].  This is a gorgeous gourmet farm restaurant with a small menu, beautiful farm-based terrace, and delightful service.  The food was beautiful - we enjoyed a three course tasting menu with a beautiful scallop salad, pork, and gorgeous dessert - but it also has a small farm yard on the grounds. The girls enjoyed seeing the sheep, goat, and chicken friends on the property. 

Le Parvis [Near Chateau Amboise].  Tucked around the corner from the Chateau in a cozy restaurant - this restaurant has a woodfired grill filled with beautiful meats.  Both Prasad and I enjoyed lovely skewered beef with great char and flavor; the girls enjoyed hamburgers of their own.  This was really a treat and one of my favorite meals of the trip - I would recommend reservations 


Standout Restaurants 

Sunday, May 26, 2024

If You Go: Paris with Kids

 Restaurants 

Eating with littles means that we are trying to find good food, quick so enjoyed lots of quick brassiere 
  • Relais Entrecôte. My favorite Parisian spot - and my 40th birthday choice.  The most delicious steak frites with their secret sauce and beautiful, fancy desserts 
  • La Coupole. Gorgeous, large brasserie in Montparnasse.  They are famous for their huge seafood towers which we didn’t order (but regretted!).  I had fabulous mussels and Prasad had a lamb curry that had a very special way of serving. Reservations recommended
  • Madame Pamapa. Had a beautiful breakfast at this cafe that’s colored in pink flowers and feathers.  The girls loved it!
  • Bouillon Charter.  Prasad’s French colleague introduced us to this charmingly Parisian chain - the food is served lightning fast, super French and very inexpensive.  Highly recommend the escargot to start and the proliffetores. Come when they open or be prepared to wait in line for a long while 



Things to Do

  • Devour Food Tour.  A fabulous food tour with 8 stops throughout the Marais district. We picked this one as it was rated as kid friendly but not entirely geared to kids so the food was still fab.  My favorite stops were Jean-Paul Hevin for macaroons (best I have ever had…went back for a box) and an onion soup place! 

  • Jardin d’Acclimation.  If you have little kids (our girls are now 5 and almost 2) - this is the most perfect, whimsical stop.  The rides are largely wooden and charming, there are dozens of playgrounds, several petting zoo areas and peacocks roam the grounds.  Get an unlimited rides pass online (much cheaper than day of)..plus…it’s home to…

  • Fundation Louis Vuitton. Frank Gehry’s first building in Europe, this place is a masterpiece.  When we were there there were no exhibits on - but tickets allowed you to walk through this gorgeous space and enjoy the views.

  • Seine Cruise - Vedette.  We went on a lovely cruise of the seine around Paris through vedette. We did a one hour family cruise which was great and we enjoyed the views from the top of the ship.  If our girls were bigger (and could swim) we would probably have enjoyed the private cruises you can get as well…maybe for my 50th

  • l'Orangerie Museum.  A small, gorgeous museums on the grounds of the Tuileries.
  • Monet’s water lilies are housed there, a great museum for littles, you can get through it in about 30 minutes 

  • Montparnasse Tower. If you stay in this neighborhood- this is about 56 stories up and includes both an open air and windowed viewing area with awesome views of the city.  If you are staying in Montparnasse or otherwise want to spend time here, a great spot.  If you just are coming for this, probably other places in Paris where time is better spent


If You Go: Strasbourg

 We loved Strasbourg. It is like walking in a fairytale with gorgeous 14th and 15th century structures nestled along canals.  The food was fabulous and unique mixture of German and French. If you are local to the DC area, Chez L’Auberge offers this style of food (and is one of my favorite occasion spots!)




Back to Strasbourg, we especially loved:

  • Modern Art Museum:  Great collection featuring some fun modern surprises and some classics (Monet, Kandinsky).  It was not  huge so perfect to get through with the girls and the staff was super accommodating of our stroller, etc.
  • Alsatian Museum:  Our daughter loved this museum and was convinced it was sleeping beauty’s house since it included both a spindle and winding stairs.  The architecture of this is the really amazing part of this experience- like stepping back in time
  • Carousel: The historic carousel in Plaza Gutenberg is beautiful and our girls rode every day of our 3 day stop. 
  • Day Trip to Colmar:  If Strasbourg is a fairytale, Colmar is next level! With gorgeous pastel colors and decor, it was absolutely stunning - just a half hour train from Strasbourg 

Lots of great spots for Alsatian food around the city.  Two stand outs from our time: 

  • Mama Bubblele.  Restaurant dedicated to the tarte flambé right on the river. Highly recommend the truffle brie tarte flambé and their dessert flambé.  The first time we tried to go, it was full with reservation only. The second time, we made a reservation and they turned away anyone who didn’t have one - so make a reservation! 
  • Drunken Storky Social Club.  This restaurant was super modern, hip and cool…and served food at 5 pm without reservation (many French restaurants don’t open until 7). The menu is modern + super accommodating with kids. I had a gorgeous duck dish and prasad had a Cesar.  Also, their bar is stand out- I had a Paloma spritz that was fab
In Colmar: 
  • Winstub Petit Venice. Beautiful meal in Colmar, we both ordered a steak dish and it was perfectly done on a skewer